Saturday, 22 September 2012


Posted by Velany Shade at 03:29
Topman’s Gordon Richardson was definitely in the American spirit for Topman Design (Topman’s high end offering) with a SS13 collection that blended neo-preppy grunge with Coachella cool. Floral watercolour prints jostled for space with fluorescent separates (in full looks and on accessories) and perforated silk, nylon and suede jackets and shorts. Favourite looks: the two-piece jersey styles in tangerine, hot pink and white.

Martine Rose
Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s The Rape of Proserpina was the starting point for menswear bad girl Martine Rose’s SS13 collection. The juxtaposition of the hard and the soft could be seen in her texture use – neoprene, bleached denim, poplin and snakeskin. While a play on proportion in the form of baggy jeans with fitted shirts (some with oversized neoprene sleeves), embroidered net masks and hand-printed tops cinched together a very strong collection.

Xander Zhou
This was the first London outing for the Beijing-based designer, who launched his brand in 2007. His sophisticated SS13 collection, entitled Fleurdelism, however had nothing first-timer about it. Features included a kind of fabric engineering that is rare in menswear and a micro-embossed nylon/rubber, which looked like alligator skin. Luxe sportswear was the focus, with tennis-white opening looks in crisp silks and linens with fastenings on the blazers. Next came mini grey and white polkas on trench coats and jackets, ending with creased silk coat/suit combos. Accessory highlights included miniature finger bags and 6cm platform sandals.

Astrid Andersen
Mink and lace are not often seen in menswear, especially combined with somewhat aggressive sportswear, but Danish designer Astrid Andersen succeeded in welding together the two in a powerful collection for SS13. The Royal College of Arts graduate showed lemon and baby blue B-Ball looks in mink and lace fused with silk, organza and nylon. Her aim is to give traditional sportswear new resonance within luxury fashion, which she certainly did.

Agi & Sam

Designers Agi & Sam, who launched their label in 2010, know how to combine humour and high design. Their SS13 collection at the MAN collective combined solid construction with fun prints. Inspired by memories of watching detective programmes at their grandparents, they showed oversized jacquard prints on tailored blazers and trompe l'oeil needlepoint embroidery on trench coats. The cast of models and non models – all with moustaches – further strengthened their vision.

Source: AriseLive


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